The Ref. 418.104.22.168.02.001 is the De Ville Prestige Co-Axial 36.8-mm. Within resides the automatic Omega Caliber 2500– the very first Co-Axial movement available commercially (released in 1999), a historically significant movement for Omega and also a major contribution to the world of watchmaking.On the two-zoned dial, there’s the choice for either gold, blue, white, or silver, with applied Roman numerals at each quarter-hour, and tick marks to the remaining points. At the 3 o’clock position resides a utilitarian date index with sword hands for the minutes and hours crossing it over. The last feature to notice is the chain-link necklace–a bracelet somewhat reminiscent of the “rice-bead” bracelets so widespread on vintage Omegas. If you are on the search, Omega has this opinion recorded starting at $3,700, however it is possible to locate it for less at a dealer.While in all possibility Omega might not have intended for this watch to be a tribute to the more historic De Ville lineage, it is the contemporary series’ classic and classic designs which provide it a somewhat “vintage-esque” feel. From it being one of the tiniest Omega men’s watches, having an approximately 37-mm case (still at the very least a millimeter or two bigger than the vintage pieces); to its understated dial; to its slick, most likely vintage-Seamaster-inspired hands; to, finally, its chain-link bracelet (likely more resilient than the stretch-prone rice bead variant) — this view provides the impression that it’s not forgotten what created the De Ville so appealing decades ago.
As someone who very publicly enjoys watches that lots of different people may not find as appealing, I pay particular attention to the series that lots of brands don’t feature on the homepages of their sites. It had been, at the time, the continuation of the classic dress watch heritage the Seamaster had uttered since 1948, but one which had become less important since the initiation of the first dive watch in the show in 1957. It was in 1967 that the De Ville set became independent of their Seamaster line, and began to develop its own personal charm and legacy. These were watches which continued to be dressy, classic, and elegant, but now appealed to a much wider market of consumers through their intriguing designs, variety of instances — including squares, rectangles, and ovals — aggressive prices, and timelessness of the dials.Today, the De Ville collection, like other Omega Deville Hour Vision Annual Calendar Replica ranges, is a much larger collection of watches, with a large number of “sub-series” hidden within. The particular “sub-series” we will be covering is your De Ville Prestige collection–a group of watches that continues to represent what made the De Ville series so appealing because its launch as an independent model in ’67.
In my opinion, this De Ville strikes something of an ideal balance between a reserved, austere appearance and something which’s more visually adventuresome. Conversely, you can look at the Omega Planet Ocean GoodPlanet GMT, that will be completely striking but perhaps not the very discreet watch accessible. This De Ville is definitely more on the side, but I believe that it finds a wonderful compromise.Of program, half of the reason you’re even considering this view is due to the motion, specifically because it’s the unusual annual calendar complication. The 8500-based 8601 here really “knows” (to anthropomorphize the movement) which months have 30 days or 31 days, meaning, with the exclusion of February (since it has variable days depending on the year), the owner doesn’t have to adjust the date at the end of short months. You can assume, as most do, that besides this complication, the rest of the 8601 is pretty much the exact same as another 8500s you’ve seen, but you would be wrong. There are in fact several important changes seen elsewhere, but we’ll get to this at the movement section.The dial is simply marvelous, and it really is as an example of just how far you can do with very little. It is, without a doubt, among the finest looking dials I have ever reviewed.
From the United States Omega is to a very large degree the “Seamaster” and “Speedmaster” watch manufacturer. Those two timepiece families largely dominate the image we think of when someone strikes Omega. Let’s think about a few of the more notable things Omega is famous for. Well there is the moon landing watch for a single – that has been a Speedmaster. There are the contemporary James Bond watches, those are all Seamasters – which are on my mind right now as I just saw Skyfall a couple of days back. Omega is a game watch brand to Americans, and that’s how we like it.Internationally Omega is more than that. Both of these arms of Omega are years old and represent another, more formal side of the brand. Even if they do not signify what you’re searching for in an Omega, they are worth being familiar with. In the US they do not have as much grip as the “masters,” but they’re still good watches. Let’s take a look at one of the newer De Ville versions – the recently redone Co-Axial Chronograph.This might be among the first times I have really discussed a De Ville version on aBlogtoWatch. Mostly because a number of the older models aren’t to my taste. Which is ironic since the very first ever Omega I owned was a classic hand-wound De Ville from the 1970s. As soon as I watched the new Co-Axial Chronograph models at Baselworld 2012, I understood Omega had a comparative hit. My problem with the older non-three hand men’s De Ville models was that they seemed to lack a cohesive layout, and were asymmetrical in their appearance.A few years back Omega made the De Ville Hour Vision which is exactly what all modern De Ville versions are predicated on. The Hour Vision also featured the new (at the time) Omega caliber 8500 automatic movement – which was an in-house created Omega caliber that of course contained a Co-Axial Escapement.
Here we see the double mainspring layout of the 8500 and 8601. Double mainsprings have a variety of advantages. To begin with, they may be relatively easy to fit to a view of a particular diameter rather than one giant mainspring, which occasionally involves building a movement on top of or around the part, the IWC Portofino 8 Days being a wonderful example of what that looks like. Another benefit, at least using successive mainsprings like with this Omega, is that it may level out the power delivery, decreasing instability caused by varying amounts of energy at the mainsprings. This is an area where the stats to the 8601 differ marginally, getting the still-excellent 55 hour power reserve instead of the 8500’s 60. That is still quite good, however, about 15 over the business average.Now it’s time to talk about the escapement, actually the collection of components making a watch actually a watch. This is really even more significant for Omega since they are the only company allowed to generate co-axial escapements.Due to the design of this watch, and most watches really, we can not see the majority of the escapement, however we are able to look straight down to the very unusual escape wheel. Its odd design is the result of the co-axial strategy, which was made to reduce friction between the escape wheel (revealed) and also the pallet fork. This is the toughest working place of a watch and it requires service comparatively frequently. The co-axial escapement was made to improve time between required service intervals and therefore increase equilibrium (over the long term) within these periods. It is actually an extremely exotic design and quite interesting to see at the kinds of movements ordinary individuals can afford.
The free sprung balance, instead of the smooth balance with regulator, has been the norm in high-end Swiss watches. Regulated movements, that have their very own prestigious followers such as Grand Seiko and many A. Lange & Sohne, and many more accessible Swiss watches (specifically those powered by ETA), use another mechanism to control the speed of the motion known as the regulator. This device changes the effective period of the hairspring to speed up or slow down the motion. This creates a watch substantially less difficult to fix, so easy that many watch collectors can even do it at home, but it will come with possible penalties. For one thing, the regulator may have a disruptive influence on the hairspring, damaging equilibrium, but for yet another they can “deregulate” over time, causing the watch to deviate increasingly over the span of years.Omega, such as Rolex and Patek, but uses a totally free sprung balance. This actually means, counterintuitively, that the opinion has one fewer element compared to their entry level counterparts, namely the regulator. With no ruler, watchmakers still will need to change the speed of the movement, and that is usually by means of a variable inertia equilibrium. In a regulated movement, the balance wheel is almost always smooth and it lacks any practical means of adjusting the balance wheel. In a free sprung layout, however, the balance wheel can be directly altered to change the rate. This is almost always done by means of tiny screws in the rim of the balance wheel, highlighted here. These little screws are normally made from gold, to give weight, and by advancing or retreating an opposing pair of screws you can accelerate or slow down the motion.
The free sprung balance, as opposed to the smooth balance with ruler, has become the norm in high-end Swiss watches. While the Germans and Japanese have remained more or less focused on controlled designs, Patek, Journe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Omega and now even Tudor have almost exclusively moved into the free sprung balance. Regulated movements, that have their very own prestigious followers like Grand Seiko and many A. Lange & Sohne, as well as most more reachable Korean watches (specifically those powered by ETA), use another mechanism to control the speed of the movement known as the regulator. This device changes the effective length of the hairspring to accelerate or slow down the motion. This makes a watch substantially easier to fix, so simple that many watch collectors may also do it at home, but it will come with possible penalties. To begin with, the regulator can have a disruptive influence on the hairspring, hurting stability, but for another they can “deregulate” over time, causing the watch to deviate increasingly over the course of years.Omega, like Rolex and Patek, but uses a totally free sprung balance. This really means, counterintuitively, that the opinion has one fewer component than their more entry level sockets, namely the regulator. Without a ruler, watchmakers still will need to change the rate of the motion, and that’s usually by way of a varying inertia balance. In a controlled movement, the balance wheel is almost always smooth and it lacks some practical means of adjusting the balance wheel. In a free sprung design, however, the balance wheel can be directly altered to alter the rate. This is nearly always done by means of small screws at the rim of the balance wheel, emphasized here. These little screws are usually made from gold, to give weight, and by advancing or retreating an opposing set of screws you can speed up or slow down the motion.
Bringing together luxury and performance, Omega has consistently redefined state-of-the art mechanical watchmaking since 1884 – paving the way for precision timepieces that are captivating, inspiring, and beautifully engineered. Omega have been witness to some of mankind’s most historic moments: from having supplied NASA with the Speedmaster Professional which went on to become the first watch worn on the moon during the Apollo space missions, to being the official timekeeper to the Olympic games, witnessing some of sport’s greatest achievements.
Boasting record breaking precision, reliability, versatility, and design, Omega timepieces are the pinnacle of luxury watches. Boasting an exquisite design and high precision functionality, this Omega De Ville Gent’s Watch is the perfect companion for active urban gent with a discerning sense of style. Featuring a bronze dial with rose gold detailing, a strong, stainless steel and rose gold case, and a flawless brown leather strap, this tough talking watch will ensure you are on time and in style, whatever the occasion.