Here at aBlogtoWatch, we have covered our fair share of chronograph watches, and oftentimes they can be bunched into the “sportier” side of life. This isn’t to say that there aren’t chronographs out there that can be seen as dressy; in fact, with so many brands evolving their lines to include new materials and classier touches, the range of options have grown vastly to broaden the role that a chronograph can serve.
The newest versions come in three variants (explained below) such as three-hand models that can be obtained in 42 mm or 45.5 mm versions and a brand new chronograph model available only in the 45.5 mm case size. Omega Planet Ocean 8500 42mm Replica can’t just flippantly update the Planet Ocean as the PO is the most popular version of the Seamaster line and the Omega Seamaster range has a very passionate fan base. Omega understands the Seamaster line (and its own buyers) and the new models not only display the right Seamaster DNA and design, but they’re also powered by in-house Omega movements.The Omega 8500 (three hand movement) is a co-axial movement using a 60 hour power reserve as a result of its twin barrel design. The 8500 utilizes 39 stones, a free sprung balance, and beats in a relatively slow 25,200 vph. The chronograph models utilize the calibre 9300 that is a brand-new column-wheel chronograph movement. Seen as a two enroll display, just the three o’clock subdial is for the chronograph and utilizes a white hand for elapsed hours and an orange ProPlof-style hand for elapsed minutes (so cool, see photo at right). Running seconds show about the two o’clock subdial, whilst chrono seconds show on the primary (full size) second hand for simple reading. This design is simple and innovative and largely the coolest feature of this 9300 based Planet Ocean. The 9300 shares the 8500’s 60 hour power book but it defeats at a more standard 28,800 vph. Both brand new calibres are COSC capable, entirely adorned by Omega, and take a four year guarantee.
Whether it be a cleaner, uncluttered dial or a gold case, a chronograph can be just as much at home in a suit as it can with jeans and a t-shirt. Foregoing any loud color choices, styling, and general “sportiness,” these dressy chronographs are subtle without coming off stuffy or too formal – classy with something of an edge, you could say. The goal when looking for one is to find what works best for you, and we have compiled a list that should serve as a great “starting point” to your personal collection. With these things in mind, let’s take a look at just a few of your options.
Bulgari Octo Velocissimo Ultranero Chronograph
With its octagonal case, dressed up to shine thanks to a total of over 100 facets, polished and applied indices and a deep black dial, this Bulgari Octo Velocissimo strikes a rare balance between masculine, sporty design, and powerful restraint. Bulgari offers several variants in the Octo collection, so you can go from this all steel version all the way to the even more serious-looking version with a combination of a black DLC case and an 18k gold bezel, hands and indices.
It is not easy to successfully mix timeless, elegant design with unique treats. Thanks to this powerful mixture of curves and hard angles, shining bright and brushed surfaces, and a relatively small 41mm wide case, the Bulgari Octo Velocissimo does manage to tick a lot of boxes. The movement is a Zenith El Primero-based BVL328 that is stunning to view through the sapphire crystal back. Pricing starts $9,900 for the steel cased version on the black leather strap.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph
It would be hard to make a list like this without including the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph. One of Germany’s finest watchmakers, Lange has never really been about large watches – and we have all forgotten about that experimental Lange 31 that was 46mm wide, right? The 1815, with its sleek white gold case, thin lugs and discreet, rectangular pushers is as classic in its look as they get. Chronographs of today do tend to be too bulky for the sake of being bulky, but at 39.5mm, this watch is ideally sized to suit its reserved wrist-presence.
Powered by the exquisite Caliber L951.5, the 1815 has a healthy power reserve of 60 hours. This particular A Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph Boutique Edition is professional-looking even with the added pulsometer on the flange ring and, with a dark-blue leather strap, should have no trouble to be matched to whatever you put on for your suit-up day. It won’t be on every other wrist either with a price of 49,000 Euros.
Cartier Rotonde Chronograph
Dressy elegance and Cartier are a match made in heaven. With this Rotonde de Cartier Chronograph (Reference CRWSRO0002), Cartier succeeded in designing a timepiece that truly embodies the exquisite finishing and classic styling the brand is known for. Some could argue that the dial is a bit busy, and though it might be, the large hands and trademark Cartier Roman numerals all make for above-average-legibility.
The stainless steel case is pictured here, but Cartier also offers the Rotonde in 18k white or pink gold – and even with the steel you, of course, also get the added touch of the blue spinel cabochon. . Consider this piece is powered by the in-house caliber 1904-CH MC and you have not only a beautiful watch, but also the added bragging rights of a proprietary movement. Priced at $9,050, the Rotonde de Cartier Chronograph is a true classic – albeit arguably not one with the most competitive price.
Vacheron Constantin Historique Cornes De Vache 1955 Chronograph
The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955 revives vintage chronograph vibes like hardly anything else released in recent years. At 38.5mm, this platinum reinterpretation of Vacheron’s Reference 6087 wears a little smaller than your average chronograph, and the famed “cow-horn” lugs add to the vintage-inspired touch. Its white dial is elegant and straight-forward and its thin baton hands are just the right length.
The in-house Calibre 1142 is the epitome of classic mechanical chronograph movement design, and the case’s sapphire crystal back permits an excellent view. The modest size of the Cornes De Vache, again a plus here, allows it to fit nicely under shirt cuffs and the dark alligator strap is smart and safe choice. Price, even with the platinum case and the remarkable movement, is up there at $75,000.
Patek Philippe 5170R-010
The Patek Philippe 5170R-010 has a rather similar dial layout to the Cartier and the Lange we have looked at above – and yet, the 5170R ends up being an incomparably different watch. Its dauphine hands, applied Breguet numerals and (relatively speaking) generously sized, 39.4 millimeter-wide rose gold case all make for a more powerful, and yet more classical look.
Patek Philippe does offer the 5170 in a few different versions, but it really is the rose gold (with either a white or black dial) that combines traditional with contemporary. Run by Patek’s hand-wound CH 29-535 PS, this is yet another look at the highest levels of traditional chronograph movement architecture. All this magnificence and the Patek name do come with a matching price: the Patek Philippe 5170R-010 is priced at $81,000.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph
The Omega Planet Ocean Deep Black Collection was just announced yesterday, with substantial interest globally in a new GMT Planet Ocean timepiece using a ceramic instance, in four distinct executions, and with Master Chronometer certificate. We saw the whole collection soon thereafter and have some first ideas to discuss, as well as live shots of those watches — that affirm some widespread first impressions from the media release, as well as challenging others (at least to some extent). A quick overview of the basics: that the watches have full ceramic instances (they are marked with the chemical formula for the ceramic, zirconium dioxide, on the lugs and also on the dial — the latter very discreetly) and have screw-down case backs featuring the so-called Naiad locking system. The latter is a patented way of ensuring that the decoration (and, potentially, other decorative case back elements later on) remain correctly aligned with respect to the vertical and horizontal axes of this circumstance. Water resistance is 600 m/2,000 ft, and there is a GMT function as well, with separate setting of the hour hand in 1 hour increments. The circumstance is 45.5 mm x 17.8 mm thick; nevertheless the opinion wears lighter thanks to this ceramic instance construction. As the watch is a Master Chronometer, it includes METAS certification for magnetic immunity to 15,000 gauss, and also COSC certification for accuracy. The movement is Omega co-axial caliber 8906, with a 60-hour power book, two barrels, and a ion equilibrium spring. Pricing is a little greater than you might expect to get a Seamaster, but there are also a lot of distinguishing technical features for which a superior can be warranted, and which add up to a watch that really does stand apart from lots of its competitors.
Given the nature of this list, I would be remiss if I left out the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph. This watch makes the list for several reasons, first of which is its ability to blend in or stand out depending on your attire. The trademark AP “grande tapisserie” dial is available in a number of colors and is paired with either stainless steel or 18k gold case variants. The famous avant-garde styling of the Royal Oak lends itself well to a dressier nature and the stunning link band makes for a perfect combination.
You can change the vibe of the Royal Oak Chronograph easily by simply matching it to either a rubber strap, black or brown alligator options, or AP’s amazing bracelets – which are, of course, available in gold or steel. The movement cannot measure up to those offered by AP and VC, but the solid 2385 automatic caliber has sure been around long enough to be tried and proven by now. In gold, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph is priced at $38,500.